Friday, May 29

Pasarela day 1 & 2

port traditional romanesc
conferinta Didier Grumbach


Costumul Reginei Maria



Ie romaneasca in colectia YSL





Va scriu in graba deoarece sunt in plina desfasurare a festivalului Pasarela, festival ce pana acum m-a uimit prin numarul bogat si calitatea invitatilor si a evenimentelor. Dar sa va povestesc pe rand:
Deschiderea a avut loc miercuri seara in prezenta lui Pierre Berge - mai tineti minte interviul pe care i l-am luat pentru revista The One? Berge a inaugurat expozitia organizata de fundatia sa si Muzeul National de Arta al Romaniei (MNAR) in omagiul lui Yves Saint Laurent. Invitati, unul si unul, din lumea modei, a filmului, a televiziunii: Doina Levinta si Dan Coma, Lena Criveanu, Adrian Oianu, Andreea Esca, Dl Tariceanu si sotia, Cristi Puiu si Cornel Porumboiu, proaspat intors de la Cannes cu inca un premiu, evident! La acestia se adauga si organizatorii festivalului si echipa din Ambasasa Frantei, impreuna cu Ambasadorul, Dl Henri Paul. De asemenea invitat la fel de important: Dl Didier Grumbach, despre care v-am vorbit de atatea ori aici.

Pierre Berge stapaneste la perfectie arta discursului, dupa parerea mea, si a dovedit acest lucru si in deschiderea serii. Am vizitat apoi mica expozitie YSL. Mica, mult prea mica fata de dorinta mea uriasa de a vedea la Bucuresti tinute de haut couture ale creatorului, pe care publicul romanesc sa le vada de aproape. Este important cred, pentru a capata aceea atentie a vesmantului si a modului de a ne imbraca. M-au educat multe din expozitiile de costum vizitate la Paris si presupun, ca ar avea acelasi efect asupra celor interesati si aici, in tara. Dar voi privi partea plina a paharului si imi voi zice ca este un inceput bun si ca viiorul depinde de noi, directoarea muzeului a confirmat faptul ca este posibil ca pe viitor sa existe o expozitie mult mai ampla.

A doua zi, deschiderea oficiala a festivalului de catre Ambasadorul Frantei in Romania, Dl Henri Paul urmata de inaugurarea expozitiei de costum romanesc, expozitie realizata cu ajutorul dnei Adina Nanu, care detine costume romanesti incepand cu secolul 19. Evident ca ce va zic aici, cere poze, insa sunt pe fuga, inaintea unei alte conferinte si inca nu am descarcat pozele. Insa vor veni si ele.

Conferinta lui Didier Grumbach despre trecutul, prezentul si viitorul modei a fost o incantare, pentru mine, si desi reprezinta o parte din cursul sau de la IFM, l-as putea asculta si reasculta de inca multe ori. Dl Grumbach are un mod de a povesti care te transporta undeva in timp si te face aproape sa vizualizezi epoca resepctiva, iar calmul vocii sale, enormul bun simt si modestia sunt o lectie de viata pentru mine. Am regretat ca sala nu a fost plina, ca nu am vazut oameni care sa se inghesuie la a prinde un loc in sala. Nu poti exista in industria modei si in cea textila fara cunostinte solide despre aceasta industrie si istoria ei. Sa nu profiti de prezenta unuia dintre cei mai mari specialisti in domeniu mi se pare un pacat....cred ca toti cei care lucreaza in acest domeniu trebuiau sa fie in sala.

Va sfatuiesc sa vizitati expozitiile de la MNAR si sa vedeti o paralela intre ia romaneasca vazuta si reinterpretata de un creator francez si ia romaneasca asa cum exista ea la inceput de secol 20.
I am writing in a rush because the festival Pasarela at wich I am now present is in full progress. This festival has suprised me by the big number and the standing of its guests and events. But let me talk about things in order:

The opening took place on Wednesday night in the presence of Pierre Berge – do you remember the interview I had with him for The One magazine? Berge inaugurated the exhibition organized by his foundation and the National Museum of Arts of Romania (MNAR) in the honor of Yves Saint Laurent. All the guests were hand picked from the world of fashion, cinema, TV: Doina Levinta and Dan Coma, Lena Criveanu, Adrian Oianu, Andreea Esca, Mr Tariceanu with his wife, Cristi Puiu and Cornel Porumboiu, who has just returned from Cannes with one more prize, of course! To these add the the organizers of the festival and the team from the Embassy of France, together with Mr Henri Paul, the Ambassador. One more important visitor was Mr Didier Grumbach, about whom I have already talked to you so many times.

Pierre Berge handles perfectly the art of speech in my opinion. And this thing was proven again at the opening of the night. Later, we visited the small exhibition YSL. But it is small, very small indeed, compared to my huge desire of seeing in Bucarest the designer's haute couture clothing, for the Romanian public to see it closely. And, in my opinion, this is very important for developing an awareness of the clothing and our way to dress. I have learned a lot from my visits of costume exhibitions in Paris and I suppose that it would have the same effect on the people who are interested by this in our country. I will try to keep in mind the half glassful and I will say to myself that this is a good beginning and that the future depends on us. The director of the museum has confirmed that possibly in future there will be a much ampler exhibition.

The next day is the official festival opening by the Ambassador of France in Romania, Mr Henri Paul, which was followed by the inauguration of the exhibition of the Romanian costume, which has been realized with the help of Adina Nanu, who owns Romanian costumes dating from the 19th century. Of course, everything I am talking about now needs to be supported by some photos , but I am really in a rush out for a new conference and I have not downloaded the pictures yet. But they will come soon.

The Conference of Didier Grumbach about the past, the present and the future of fashion, was for me an enchantment. And even if he presented a part of his lecture at IFM, I could listen to him time and again. Mr Grumbach has a way of narrating that transports you somewhere far away in time and he makes you almost visualize the respective epoch. And his calm voice, his tremendous good sense and modesty are a lesson of life for me. I regretted that the conference room was not full, that I did not see people crowding to take a seat in the room. One cannot work in the fashion and textile industry without solid knowledge about this industry and its history. It is really a pity not to take advantage of the presence of one of the greatest specialits in the domain... I think that all those who work in this domain should have come to this conference.

I recommend visiting the exhibition at the MNAR to see a parallel line between the Romanian traditional shirt -« ie »- in the vision and reinterpretation of a French designer and, the Romanian shirt « ie » as it existed in the beginning of the 20th century.

2 comments:

senior1 said...

Un specialist are nevoie de o chemare si implicare. Un semnal aruncat intr-o revista nu inseamna invitatie. Specialistii romani nu se asteptau la un eveniment de un nivel atat de ridicat deoarece, cum a fost promovat evenimentul "Pasarela" de catre media, acesta aducea mai mult cu un evenimet cultural al ambasadei franceze si al institutului cultural francez. Despre IFM nu s-a stiut. Si eu regret ca nu am fost mai multi specialisti in salile de conferinte. De asemenea au fost si putini studenti adevarati. In schimb au fost multi oameni care nu ne reprezinta...

FLORENTINA said...

Da, cred ca dintr-un anumit punct de vedere aveti dreptate. Pe de alta parte, ma gandesc ca specialistii stiu cine este Didier grumbach si in ciuda modului de comunicare al Ambasadei trebuiau sa fie prezenti.

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